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Day 3 - Hiking The Narrows

10/21/2014

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We woke up to a weather forecast of no rain. No big deal, you probably think but one of the hikes we wanted to do was The Narrows (readers of my previous blogs may remember that this hike was my favourite thing ever. Still is). The Narrows hike involves hiking up the Virgin River until its branch at Orderville canyon. And by up the river, I mean in the river. After rainfall, Zion experiences very fast, very deadly flash floods which flow through the narrow canyons and kill everything in its path (might be an exaggeration but still pretty fatal to unlucky hikers). As rain was forecast for later in the week, we decided to do the Narrows today while the odds were in our favour.
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The peaceful Virgin River. Hard to imagine deadly flash-floods tearing through.
We got into the canyon early, parked up and took a very crowded shuttle bus down to the river. A few people were paddling by the banks but you could tell the serious hikers – poles and staffs, waterproof clothing, wetsuit shoes. I was in pyjama shorts and trainers (great for hiking!) but I’m sure I wasn’t judged for it.
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I LOVE water hiking. You have to go slowly so the current doesn’t wash you off your feet but there is something incredible about moving through ice cold water while the red sandstone canyons tower above you. Mostly the water reached between shin and knee but at times it was right up to the hip. I used leg muscles I didn’t know I had (and am feeling them now, as I type this). We passed waterfalls, cut-out subways of rock and marooned trees that had been ripped up by floods and deposited on random extremities of rock.
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Further into the canyon, the walls become darker as well as rippled and grooved, where water has worn sweeping channels into the soft rock. Stunning stuff. Sadly, we reached the branch too soon and had to turn back (to hike the whole river, you need a permit. Damn you, Lesley Knope!).
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Interestingly, our GPS tracker got a little confused during the hike, presumably due to the pings only being picked up when the signal was clear in the canyon. We did not hike 14 miles and leap across the canyon tops like some crazy x-men reject…

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Back at the cabin, we decided to light a fire to cook dinner. A truly beautiful milky way lit up the white cliffs behind our cabin as we made s’mores. UK friends – s’mores are biscuit (Graham crackers, specifically), chocolate and marshmallow piled together and heated over a fire until melted and delicious. We skipped the marshmallow and substituted peanut butter. US friends – I find it really interesting that Graham crackers are pronounced ‘Gram’. Watching ‘Hannibal’ is a surreal experience whenever lovely, troubled Will ‘Gram’ is on screen. I think that’s why Hannibal goes mad and eats everyone. He’s infuriated by the pronunciation.


Miles hiked: 4 (don’t judge, hiking in water is hard)



Flash floods survived: none



Gators wrestled: none



S’mores eaten: 4







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Day 2 - We meet again, Zion...

10/21/2014

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Seeing as we explored Zion and Grand Canyon National Parks on our previous US roadtrip, we wanted to make sure we had some different sites on this visit. One place we hope to visit is The Wave, in Arizona (it’s at number 21 but check out the whole list. If it gets your travel-foot kicking, maybe we can plan some adventures together across the pond…).

Now, The Wave is not only a mind-blower but also a very fragile rock formation so the Land Bureau are pretty strict at limiting permits for access, which involves an early morning lottery at the Parks and Rec office! Yay! We got to the office at 9am to compete with 87 other people for 10 places. Yeah, we didn’t get a permit but we’ll keep trying so keep everything crossed for us.

Disappointment aside, we still had the day ahead of us so we drove into Zion National Park.


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Zion is an incredible canyon wilderness that has been protected since the 1930s from strip malls and high-rises. The main canyon itself is busy (October is peak season) but as with most national parks, a short step off the main path and you can find some proper wilderness. We started with a hike called ‘the watchmen’ (obviously, any comic book reference and we’re ‘aving it), which took us up above the canyon so we could look down on all the cars and coaches and laugh, muhahahaha, the tourists look like ants. The hike was surprisingly intense – an elevation of 2000ft in desert heat can apparently do a number on you - but we pushed through it because the view was worth it. Plus, I got to practice using my zoom lens on this little guy. His name is Luscifer.
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There were very few people on the hike with us despite the gorgeous autumn Sunday – it was the first weekend of deer hunting season so why explore some gorgeous canyons when you can kill beautiful creatures and leave their decapitated corpses alongside the road?

Hike descended, we drove out of the main canyon to the lesser known Kolob Reservoir (don’t tell the rental company, we’re not supposed to take our car off paved roads). Turns out, Aspen trees might be the most beautiful trees ever. I had to lie in the middle of the road to get this shot but it was totally worth it (and it wasn’t a busy road). We also saw a couple of isolated houses that we would love to buy – off the grid, completely cut-off in winter, only accessible by rope-bridge. You are going to have to call ahead before y’all visit.

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The reservoir road ended at the incredible Lava Point overlook. We didn’t see another soul up there. Again, why have crowded gift shops, two-abreast hiking trails, hours on the road stuck behind coaches and stumbling RVs when you can experience Zion like this? I’ll be honest, you are never getting me off this damn mountain. Real life can suck it. I REFUSE TO CONFORM.
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Eventually, James did get me off the mountain with the promise of ice cream. We drove back to the main canyon (via ice cream) and decided to use our last hour of daylight with another canyon hike for a last look over the sleepy world of Zion at dusk.

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We got back to Mt Carmel Junction and had dinner at the Thunderbird Diner, home of ‘ho-made’ pies (they ran out of space on the sign - the pies are not made by hoes) before crashing out at our cabin. This was supposed to be our easy day. Hooray for holidays!

Miles hiked: 5-6 ish (James did try to use a snazzy new hiking ap to record our progress but he forgot to turn it off when we got into the car, so apparently we hiked 60 or so miles at an average speed of 27miles/hour)

Burgers eaten: one

Sunburn percentage: 0% - somehow!

Tarantulas encountered: none – thank you jeebus!

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 Day One - mostly driving...

10/18/2014

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After leaving our good friends in Claremont, we started our trip from California to Utah. More than 600 miles through scrubby desert and mountains, past billboards advertising the gaudy delights of Vegas. Note to anyone planning a roadtrip – don’t stop in Primm. Don’t ever stop in Primm. The fake pretender of Vegas in the desert, with a dodgy looking roller-coaster and the worst parking lot in history. It’s better to die a sandy, vulture-ridden death at the side of the I-15 than stop in Primm. Seventh circle of hell with an over-priced Subway (a dollar extra for avocado?! Please).
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We drove straight through Vegas without stopping - Hooters was having a breast cancer awareness event, nice of them, and Celine Dion is four years into a 2000 year contract at Ceasars Palace – but we’ll be back at the end of our trip for a night of debauchery. There’s only so much Vegas the human psyche can take.
There is a whole lot of nothing on the drive to Utah. As we crossed the Nevada border into Arizona, the desert skies became epic.
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After 8 hours’ driving discussing our plot ideas for season five of American Horror Story, we made it to Utah and found our little cabin in the small town of Mt Carmel Junction. We stayed here before, two years ago, and if you’re ever planning to visit Zion or Bryce, I cannot recommend this place enough. Goodnight!

Miles driven: 642

States covered: four (CA, NV, AZ, UT)

Subways eaten: two

Burgers eaten: none

Rounds of ‘eye-spy’ played: none

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